Rioja Wine Tasting

I know this won't be a shock,  but we've done a fair amount of wine-tasting in various parts of the U.S. and Europe...so it was a nice surprise on what an amazing day we experienced in Rioja.  We met up with our tour guide/host, Inma who recently started her own wine touring company - Rioja Wine Trips- out of Logrono.  She was fantastic!  We started by visiting the most uniquely designed winery, Bodegas Ysios.  Having worked at a local winery for 3+ years, she was very well-versed in the different styles that Rioja uses to produce grapes and ultimately wine. She then took us to a couple of family-run wineries  (which most are) for some tasting.  However their tastes would qualify for almost what we would consider as a 'glass' of wine!  Sampled 4 wines at Ostatu and then toured and sampled 6 at Bodegas Tierra.  Would've been 4, but the wine - maker Rodrigo must have liked us since he pulled out 2 bottles of the good stuff that he doesn't usually pour on tours. Next Inma took us to a several hundred year-old cave/cellar to have lunch (with wine of course) where friends of hers store a few barrels of their wine to specially sample with family and friends. A fantastic dejeuner with barrel 'tastes'...doesn't get much better than that!   Afterwards,  we did a quick trip to Elciego to see the Frank Geary designed hotel Marques de Riscal which was pretty cool and then café au lait in the hilltop town of Laguardia before heading back to San Sebastian. A very fun,  full day!!!

San Sebastian and Bilbao

Can't believe we've been in San Sebastian for 3 nights already!   The drive from Bordeaux was an easy one...made even sweeter in our Mercedes rental car.  San Sebastian is much larger - and with more people than I had anticipated. The beaches are beautiful and food is stellar...but it's a shock to the system after spending the past week in tiny unpopulated towns.
Yesterday we took a day trip to Bilbao which was fun. Took in the Guggenheim - which is more impressive from the outside.  Favorite part was 'Puppy' :)  The old town was pretty fun to explore as well.  It didn't hurt that all the locals had abandoned the area to watch their soccer team  (Athletico) so felt like we had the place to ourselves.

Barsac

Finishing a walking trip always feels great...and finishing one at Chateau Camperos is fantastic!  We calculated that we did about 50 miles in total, definitely not our longest walk by any stretch - but this trip was one with the nicest weather!  It was a bonus that our Chateau had a pool and huge grounds -along with some nice wine from the Graves region -with which to celebrate:) We would definitely recommend this place - and would stay there again.  Rooms were the nicest of the trip, and dinner was an amazing experience.  We were sad to have to catch the early train to Bordeaux the next morning.

Sauternes and Barsac

Well we made it...we finished our walking trip.   We did 16k around St Macaire  and the final 15k from Sauternes to Barsac.   The Chateau in Sauternes - Chateau D'Arche was fantastic  - very old and has been making wine for centuries!  We had a little tour and wine tasting.  Sauternes aren't my preferred type of wine, but the history and complexity of how it's made was interesting to see and learn about.  The next morning on our final walk, we experienced another winery tour at Chateau La Tour Blanche...one even more 'respected'.  Pretty fun!:)

St Emilion to St Macaire via St Martin de Lerm

It's amazing how much you can take Wi-Fi for granted...and how much you can appreciate it when you get it after being without it for a couple of days!  And here we've been lugging our tablets for 44 kilometers - over hill, over dale, through vineyards, next to cornfields, along the Gardonne River...to no avail:)  Good thing we had good company, good hosts and lots to eat and drink!  The walk has not been as difficult as our previous ones, but that doesn't mean that it hasn't been tough.  The dogs have been barking... and that's besides all the dogs who have been barking at us as we walk past their homes, farms, wineries, etc. :)
It's been the carrot that we always know we have some good Bordeaux waiting for us at the end of the day!  And today was only 10k, so had a little reprieve in the middle of the walk.   Tomorrow we're off to Sauternes...should be another interesting day!  Bon Soir.

Saint Emilion, France

Bonjour France!
Arriving in St Emilion yesterday afternoon made the very long day of planes, trains and automobiles totally worth it!  For visitors who enjoy du vin...this place is like being a kid in a candy store.  No lie - there are wine shops after wine shops, and tasting rooms after tasting rooms!   (Oh there are a few stores and restaurants as well,  but not as prevalent.)
The town at one point was a walled city - with gates, ramparts, etc. Most of the walls are gone now, but the old buildings remain including the King's Tower and a bell tower with 196 steep and narrow stairs to the top...just what we needed before starting our walking trip tomorrow! :)  Good thing we had a nice patio by the pool at our hotel to rest ourselves afterwards.  This was all after we had stopped in at a wine shop  (the Wine Buff), run by a gentleman named Paddy - from Ireland.  Best wine tasting experience we've had in eons.   He owns a number of shops in Ireland as well,  so plan to visit one again someday.
Bon soir!

Istrian Peninsula

After Plitvice and a fantastic dinner experience and stay at the Miric Inn, Jasko took us on a really interesting road trip as we made our way to the hilltop town of Motovun.  Narrow highways (some of which you had to pull off to the side for two cars to pass) and thru towns that had seen the war tear their country apart.  Luckily that was followed up by some lighter conversation as Jasko and Graham discussed their favorite soccer teams:)
Motovun was as amazing as what we'd read about it.  We had lunch at restaurant Konoba  Mondo - which featured fantastic dishes highlighting the local truffles.  Our quest is now to try and replicate the truffle, olive and caper tapenade that they served!:)
Next was on to Rovinj and a couple of beautiful days...with good food and wine on the Istrian Coast before our 3 1/2 hour ferry ride to Venice.

Plitvice Nat'l Park

We made an ultra smart decision by hiring a driver for our adventure to Plitvice and then to Istria - including Motovun and finally to Rovinj.  I'm not sure we would have made it out of Split - which is where our island hopping came to an end.
Our driver Jasko was great - and took us on some great roads with some amazing views!
 We arrived in Plitvice around 2pm and I think we spent a good 4 hours walking the 8k boardwalk in the park.  Place was spectacular - turquoise pools and lakes and an amazing  number of waterfalls!   You can hardly believe that there are that many...and we only saw a fraction of them!

Korcula and Hvar

Two of the biggest islands of the Dalmatian coast and we got both of them in as part of our trip.  Korcula was the quieter of the two...having been there a touch off season - as well as during the weekend.  We still managed to fit in a full  day and 1/2 of wandering around the city, taking a 'hike' and getting in some reading.  Then our apt owner took us to a restaurant called Zure - in nearby Lombarda for a seafood feast with freshly caught fish, shrimp and lobster.   And btw they source everything locally including making their own wine!  Talk about an experience we'll never forget!
Caught the very early ferry to Hvar the next morning and decided that we probably should have stayed two nights in Hvar vs Korcula.  Loved Hvar!  We had a nice apt with a stellar view  (and balcony) so of course that didn't hurt.   And was fun to walk the boardwalk, the marina and do some window-shopping. Was sad to leave this beautiful place this morning!

Montenegro and Peljesac Peninsula

It's been a busy couple of days!  Would recommend that anyone visiting this area take at least a day trip to Montenegro and the Bay of Kotor.  It was a fantastic time...and the bonus was our driver gave us not only a great commentary on the area, but also a first person account of the Siege of Dubrovnik  (defending their city from the Serbs and Montenegrins) in 1991 -1992. Pretty powerful stuff...and not something I would want to experience.
Pepo  (our driver) also took us to an awesome restaurant - in the middle of nowhere  (at least one in our opinion) where we ate too much, and drank too much - and laughed till we about cried  (ok - maybe that was just me; )
We said goodbye to Dubrovnik and the Hotel Excelsior this morning and had Pepo driving us this time to Orebic to catch the ferry to Korcula after first stopping at a couple of wineries  (vinerijas), including Grgich  (yes the same winemaker as Grgich Hills in CA) and Matusko. Totally believe that we will be hearing about Croatan Wine soon in the news!
Made it to the island of Korcula,  and  ready for bed.

Dubrovnik Highlights

Weather has been awesome and scenery stellar!
We've scouted 'Old Town'...sampled some Croatian wine and beer...taken a ton of pictures...walked the city walls...had dinner on an amazing rooftop terrace...taken a dip in the Adriatic Sea  (ok - maybe that was just Kent & Jan;)...enjoyed a seafood lunch experience in the Dubrovnik Port...mastered bus #6....and spent a whole lot of time laughing.  Tomorrow - Montenegro day trip with our driver Pepo. Hoping to get another new stamp in the passport!

Amsterdam & Dubrovnik

Today was our first full day of vacation without having to catch a plane somewhere.  Felt really good.
The short time we had in Amsterdam was almost perfect. We wandered the town,  stopped for a drink al fresco, took a fantastic canal cruise with skipper Simon (who totally had Mcdreamy hair) and first mate Celine who served the boat patrons drinks and helped with the tour commentary.  It was a stellar way to get acclimated to the area!  After a good dinner at Belhammer, we along with the rest of the city (and country) partook in 2 minutes of silence to honor the Dutch people who lost their lives during WWII. The next day was a holiday for them - to celebrate their liberation from the Nazis. Was kind of nice to be able to celebrate with them.  Was a short day though so was only able to fit in the flower markets and lunch before heading to the airport and our flight to Dubrovnik.  More to come....