Drive Home from Utah

Unfortunately part of road trips include the drive home...which always seems to take longer than on the way to your destination.  Plus it includes somewhat of a letdown as the realization sets in that your holiday is almost over. 
The good news is the drive - although almost 12 hours on Saturday and another 6 on Sunday - was pretty uneventful (which is always a good thing) and both days were stellar weather-wise. 
Plus we were even able to fit in a couple of quick stops along the drive - one to the Sierra Trading Co Outlet Store in Meridian, ID on Sat. and to two wineries in which we belong to their wine clubs (and to pick up and taste a little wine) in Prosser, WA.
Our overnight ended up in La Grande, OR - where thankfully there was a room available...and where of course we found the only brewery (Mt. Emily's) in town. The place reminded me a little of Cheney, WA - which makes sense as it's the home of Eastern Oregon University.
All-in-all a most successful and incredibly wonderful road-trip - totalling 2779 miles of driving and a combined total of oh - about 700 pictures between the two of us. For anyone interested in seeing some of our National Parks and seeing some stellar scenery - we would whole-heartedly recommend a trip to Southern Utah (before Memorial Day or after Labor Day to avoid the crowds;) 
Till next time...

Zion NP

So as we were driving from Bryce (after seeing some oh so cool pronghorns), we're both thinking how can Zion NP top what we've already seen in Capitol Reef, Escalante, Kodachrome and Bryce.  Well you can take it from us - it can.  The vistas are all completely different - with massive rock/mountain formations vs. hoodoos, arches and spires.  Plus Zion weather is a lot warmer than further east.  As we drove into the park on highway 9 the first change is that the road is red - instead of black.  So it matches all the red sandstone - very cool!  We went a little crazy taking pictures - pulling out at every stopping place...but you almost can't help yourself.  Then you go through a 1 mile tunnel which is a little unique in and of itself.  We decided to pass by the main park on Thursday and go up to the Kolob Canyon area to do the scenic drive and hit the town of Springdale instead.  Our hotel right next to the park entrance (Cable Mtn Lodge) and where we had dinner (The Spotted Dog Cafe') were two excellent finds. Plus there's a shuttle to take you everywhere - what's not to like about not driving! 

Friday so far has been a completely satiating day.  Up on the shuttle early to do the Riverwalk trail and the Weeping Rock trail which are all in the guides.  Then we walked on a not publicized trail along the 'Virgin' River which was probably the best find - no people and lots of wildlife (deer, lizards, squirrels, butterflies) - to Zion Lodge.  After a quick snack and a beer - we decided to tax ourselves by hiking up to the Upper Emerald Pools.  With 90 degree weather and at 4000 feet - it's a good workout.
Capped off the afternoon with a doozy of a thunderstorm.  Lots of lightning & thunder - enjoyed with a glass of wine (or two) on our balcony.  Again - what's not to like?!  (Though we're very happy we weren't up hiking when that hit!)

Full day in Bryce NP

Wednesday started with a visit to Mossy Caves, which is one of the very few areas of the park that has running water. Most of the water runs down a stream with a good sized waterfall (and a few smaller ones). But, a small stream has created a cave where the trickling water allows moss to grow on the cave walls. Surrounded by hoodoos, the area is small but packed with scenery.

We returned to the main area of the park to hike the Navajo Loop trail down into the Bryce amphitheater and walk amongst the bases of thousands of hoodoos. After climbing out of the amphitheater, we drove the scenic drive 17 miles to Rainbow Point and the southern end of the park, stopping many times at the numerous pull-outs and overlooks along the way. Safe to say that our camera memory cards are filling up. Bryce is not a large NP when compared to Yellowstone or Olympic, but almost every acre is a photo opportunity and is one of the most unique landscapes you will ever see. Lunch was at the Bryce Canyon Lodge.

We finished the day by driving just outside the park to visit the Red Canyon area for a brief hike and more photos, then off to dinner at a restaurant that offered to satisfy Jan's craving for grilled cheese and tomato soup.

On Thursday, we leave Bryce and head southwest to Zion NP. We're staying in the town of Springdale, which is just outside of the park. Cars are not allowed in the park, but they have a shuttle bus service to get us to the places we want to see.

Kodachrome and Bryce NP

Talk about a good vacation day!  Slot Canyons Inn is definitely a recommended stay for anyone traveling through this part of the country. Deluxe rooms, good breakfast, wi-fi;), and even some sheep, pigs and longhorns to visit/watch as part of the package;)
We got an early start along with a leisurely short drive to Kodachrome Basin State Park to view these cool looking rock pillars (called 'sand pipes') that are only found here.  After taking a moderate hike to view Shakespeare arch (you realize how tiny we are when you're out alone in the boonies!) - we then four-wheeled it about 10 miles down a dirt/gravel road to check out Grosvernor Arch.  Talk about cool - the thing was massive.  The opening itself is 99 feet across. Definitely worth the drive!
On the way to Bryce NP we ran into a little afternoon thunderstorm (made Graham happy).  Side benefit is it washed 2 1/2 days of red dirt off the car!
Spent the afternoon as well as sunset at Bryce amphitheater walking along the Rim Trail.  Wow, wow and wow.  They aren't kidding when they say it's a feast for the eyes.  Between the colors, the hoodoos (it's fascinating on how these things are formed), the spires - it's nothing you'll see anywhere else. Tomorrow we hike down into them:)
Wildlife sightings - lots of little lizards and chipmunks and yes - a few deer in the park!

Grand Staircase/Escalante Nat Monument

The water in Torrey fizzed! When we got water from the tap, it was milky white and looked horrible. But then it started to fizz until it was clear and tasted just fine. Must be all the salts and minerals. No looking back.

Monday was the drive from Torrey to Escalante through the National Monument. The day started with great weather and the road climbed to 9600 ft., which meant plenty of pull-outs for photos. Just before we got to Escalante, we turned onto Hole-In-The-Rock Road (a dirt road) for the 12.5 mile drive to Devil's Garden, which is an area with numerous hoodoos and other rock outcroppings. During lunch in Esaclante, the weather turned and we had a t-storm roll through the area. The rest of the day has been cloudy and threatening to rain/thunder, but our B&B is great (Slot Canyons Inn) and we just got back from dinner in town.

Plans for Tuesday include Kodachrome Basin (Utah state park) and Grosvenor Arch, then into Bryce Canyon NP.

Capitol Reef NP

We left SLC this morning and while on our way south, we took a side trip to drive the Mt. Nebo loop in the Wasatch mountains. The route took us through groves of aspens to a summit over 9300 ft. and spectacular mountain vistas.

After completing the scenic drive and a bite of lunch, we drove to the town of Torrey; quickly checked into our hotel and then headed into Capitol Reef NP. Wow! I challenge anyone to take a bad photo here.  We parked and walked a 1 mile trail up to see Hickman natural bridge, then jumped back into the car to take in the Capitol Reef scenic drive.  The best was yet to come as we headed for Sunset Point. Though it had clouded in, there were breaks and our patience paid off as the sun broke through and lit up the red mountains and canyon walls.

We've just returned from dinner and are enjoying a bottle of wine (Washington, of course) as we plan our Monday at Grand Staircase/Escalante National Monument. 

Drive to Salt Lake City

Just finished the first day of our road trip - over 850 miles in 12+ hours (including 3 quick stops).  Was a beautiful day for a drive...Snoqualmie Pass was nice, the Wallowa Mountains beautiful and southern Idaho - well let's just say that part of the drive was not the prettiest or most interesting that we've experienced.  In terms of wildlife we've already seen a ton of hawks, a coyote and two groups of deer.  Oh and a gazillion truckers:)
Resting in the hotel -  and happy that Jan's alma mater Eastern Washington University did so well against the U in the football game today.  The Eagles only lost by 3 when the line had the U as 18 point favorites.  Whoo-hoo!
Looking forward to starting the scenic part of our journey tomorrow. 
Buenas noches.

Accommodations wrap-up

We love to travel, but it's sure nice to get back to your bed for a full night's sleep - or two!
We've gotten a couple of requests to recap our accommodations and what we thought of them, so here goes!
Edinburgh, Scotland - Apex Waterloo: Stayed there 3 nights - and was a very nice hotel.  We had a nice-sized room on the 5th floor w/a view of the city.  Hotel also had a bar and restaurant and would total recommend staying there.
Falmouth, Cornwall - Lugo Rock Hotel: Was actually more of a B&B - had the attic suite with a really nice sized room and large bathroom (and WiFi).  Good walking distance to a couple of restaurants on the beach.  Again would recommend.
Portloe, Cornwall - The Ship Inn: Small B&B w/a bar & restaurant.  Nice place - especially as it's one of the only ones in this tiny port!
Mevagissey, Cornwall - Kervernel B&B:  Small place - typically only has one room (en suite), but since we had 4 of us and accommodations were tight in this place, they opened another room for us.  Couple was nice and had done major renovations on this very old/historic home.
Charlestown, Cornwall - Ardenconnel B&B:  Very nice rooms in this small B&B which was very close to the little port & restaurants.  They had 4 cats, so what can I say - we loved the place and would recommend;)
Fowey, Cornwall - The Galleon Inn: Nice size rooms over a pub/tavern right in the heart of the town.  Unfortunately we had a Saturday night stay (not to mention a wedding party) so needless to say there was a lot of music and noise late into the night.  But the second night was just fine & the people were great - so would recommend - although maybe not on a Saturday night:).
East Looe, Cornwall - Bridgeside Guest House:  Nice people with a cute breakfast area & bar.  Rooms could use some updating - bathrooms were a little lacking/tiny and our bed was missing a fully functioning box spring.
Portwrinkle, Cornwall - Fraggle Rock B&B: Yes, it's named after that Fraggle Rock:)  Small updated B&B with a nice view of the sea.  And since it's one of the few options in this tiny town of one restaurant, I would recommend if you need a place in Portwrinkle! (Though don't expect cell service)
Plymouth, Devon - Brittany Guest House: Great place close to everything and good people running the joint.  Even had WiFi!
London - Hotel Indigo: Stayed 3 nights total.  Great big room (with WiFi) and nice updated bathroom in a very nice hotel close to Paddington Station (block away) and Hyde Park.  Would totally recommend staying here - especially if you need to access Paddington for an early morning flight!  Would not recommend the attached restaurant however since the service is somewhat lacking (even with the breakfast option).
There you have it - and let us know if you would like any further information!

The long road home

Travel advice: choose non-stop flights when possible and if you can't get a non-stop and need to connect, avoid O'Hare airport.

We normally like to take advantage of the British Airways non-stop from Seattle to London, but chose to go on American this trip as we could use our points to fly in First/Business. The only drawback was that we'd need to connect in Chicago. Well, we really enjoyed the comfort of First/Business class, but connecting through O'Hare was a borderline nightmare. On the outbound leg, we had a 1+ hour delay when a lightning storm made it dangerous for the groundworkers to service the planes. Fortunately, we made up some time in the air and had no problem making our flight from London to Edinburgh. However, our return flight from London to Chicago turned into a day-long adventure and learning opportunity.

The flight was scheduled to arrive in Chicago at 12:55pm and due to favorable winds, we were going to arrive 30 minutes early. Our connection to Seattle was scheduled to depart at 3:25pm, so we appeared to have plenty of time to get through Customs, change terminals and even spend time in American's lounge. When we were about 30 minutes out, the Captain came on to let everyone know that O'Hare was closed due to a storm and that we'd be in a holding pattern for 20-30 minutes. Since we were early, it looked like the delay would mean we'd land at the regularly scheduled time. Wishful thinking on our part.

After a couple of circuits over central Michigan, the Captain came back on to say that conditions at O'Hare had not improved and the airport would remain closed for at least another hour. In addition, we would need to divert to another airport as low fuel meant that waiting out the closure in the air wasn't possible. The nearest airport with no weather issues that we could reach to land and pick up some fuel was Minneapolis. With that, we were off to the Twin Cities.

The flight crew said that our stop for fuel at MSP would be brief and it probably only took 20 minutes to get topped up at the gate (no one was allowed off due to Customs reasons). Jan checked her Blackberry and travel alerts confirmed that our flight to Seattle would also be delayed by the storm, so it seemed that we could make our connection if we could take off and get back to O'Hare. But, as soon as we made it to the runway, we rolled to the side and were told that air traffic control needed to keep us on the ground for 45 minutes to limit the number of flights inbound to Chicago. Then, luck appeared to be on our side: we were given clearance to depart after only 20 minutes and additional alerts told advised that the Seattle flight was further delayed. Things just might work out.

The flight to Chicago was quick (landed at 4:15pm) and the Captain told us that our gate at the international terminal was the closest to the Custom hall, so things looked promising. But, when we landed and made it to the terminal, we just kept on rolling by as there were no open gates. We then parked and were told that no one knew when we'd be assigned a gate and other flights were also waiting. We finally made it to a gate and walked off the plane at 5:30pm. We then stood in a long line at Customs and made it through at 6:00pm. By then, our connection to Seattle had departed. Jan had contacted Alaska to see if they could help and had us tentatively booked on their 8:00am flight the next day, but we crossed our fingers that American could re-book us on a flight that evening.

For anyone who has experienced connection issues and had to go to the customer service counter to try to rescue your trip, I now have tremendous sympathy. I won't detail everything we saw and experienced as I'd prefer not to relive that (think a 'zoo' of angry, smelly and tired humans), but we finally made it through the line and were able to get re-booked on a flight at 8:40pm. The agent told us that First Class was full; was able to get us seats together in an exit row (more legroom) and would put us on the upgrade list. After a free drink and time to recharge our phones in American's lounge, we made our way to the gate. The monitor listed folks on the standby list, but didn't display the upgrade list. After boarding, we quickly realized that the flight was 2/3 full at best and the First Class cabin was only half full. Jan jumped up and after working with a flight attendant and gate agent, we were moved to First Class. So, why would the re-booking agent tell us that First Class was full when it wasn't? We were ticketed in First Class on the flight we had missed, so it's not like we were trying to get a benefit we weren't entitled to. Once Jan showed our original boarding passes to the gate agent, she moved us quickly. At that point, it was counterproductive to dwell on the motives of the re-booking agent. Something had finally gone in our favor and we were headed for home.  We landed at Sea-Tac 6 hours later than we had been scheduled to arrive, but we were home.

When we look back, we know that our experience was more of an irritation than a catastrophe and many other travelers have fared far worse (thankfully, the volcanic eruption in Iceland earlier last week became a non-issue and didn't result in a week-long UK airspace closure like it did last year). But, it did give us a taste for the problems that can come up when travelling abroad. O'Hare airport is one of the busiest in the world and located in an area that is susceptible to severe weather. When disruptions occur at O'Hare, the impacts are significant and the ripple effect is wide. Even a closure of 15 minutes, like the one that occurred on our outbound leg, can cause problems that take hours to shake out.

We enjoyed the creature comforts of First/Business class and the fuel surcharges/taxes were much lower with American than with British.  But, the benefits of a non-stop far outweigh those benefits received on an itinerary that involves flight connections.....especially if O'Hare is on the itinerary.

Bigger than the Super Bowl

Not many back in the US know this, but there is a sporting event that is bigger than the Super Bowl. The UEFA Champions League final, which will be played on Saturday (kickoff is 11:45am PDT on Fox) will be watched by more people worldwide than the Super Bowl, World Cup or Olympics. This year, the final is being held at Wembley Stadium in London and the entire city is alive with anticipation. Fans of Barcelona and Manchester United have been flooding into town dressed in the colors of their team. This afternoon, we went to the Champions League Festival being held in Hyde Park, which is about a 15-minute walk from our hotel. The festival had plenty to do and see, including the spectacular trophy, a hall-of-fame and soccer-related activities.When Saturday afternoon rolls around, our biggest challenge will be to get to a local pub and secure seats so we can watch the game. Even though London seems to have a pub on every block and all TVs will be tuned in, they will be packed. If the team from England can pull off a victory, the capital of England may go wild. A great time to be visiting London.

Connected - yes or no?

Being back in London we've had a chance to reflect on the past couple of weeks and the issue of 'being connected'.  In the states we take it for granted that we have cell service - as well as internet access for our netbook or iPad.  But where we've been in the South West coast of England - connectivity isn't the same as what we're used to.  I wasn't that surprised that many of the B&B's in the small towns we stayed in didn't have WiFi - but as far as we could tell - many of these towns didn't have Internet Cafe's or even cell/blackberry service either.  Needless to say if you're planning on posting comments or sending an email, it can be relatively frustrating.  On the other hand it was a little refreshing too.  Ok, so we weren't 'connected'...neither was anyone else in the town - and they seemed to be getting along just fine.  It was actually an ok feeling to 'let it go'...at least temporarily:)  I'm guilty of constantly relying on email 24/7....wonder if it makes sense to take a holiday from that once and awhile too...

Boots are packed away and we are now in London

OK, we have to fess up: we chose not to walk the final leg of the coast path on Wednesday. Our destination was Plymouth and we all wanted more time to see the historic sites such as the steps the Mayflower departed from, Sir Francis Drake's memorial.......and tour the Plymouth Gin distillery. So, instead of walking the last 13+ miles; arriving at 6pm and dead tired from a long day, we all piled into a taxi and had a full day to play tourist. Oh, and the gin was pretty good too!

After bidding adieu to my brother and sister-in-law earlier this morning, we boarded the train to London and have just checked into the Hotel Indigo near Paddington station. We're about to head for dinner and plan what we will do for the next two days.  Safe to say a little shopping will be on the agenda, while Saturday night will spent be in a pub cheering on Manchester United in their Champions League Final clash with Barcelona. C'mon United!

Walking the South West Coast Path

So here we're thinking we've done pretty good so far on our walk - having finished 63 miles over 6 days with a cumulative elevation of 12,307 feet.  And then we meet up with a couple who've been walking for 12 days starting in Penzance and were carrying everything they'd brought for their walking holiday in their backpacks.  Yikes!!!  But it sounds like the record for the total 630 miles of the entire trail is someone who did it in 16 days - over 39 miles a day...running.  My first question of course would be, why? :) And the second one - how in the heck???  The trail is not gradual rolling hills - it's up & down and up & down, on most of the time a narrow dirt/rocky trail - and near cliffs.  Which is why they call is a dramatic coastline.  If you lived in the area, it would be a wonderful thing to tackle the trail - but over a number of weekends and over a number years.  And we met quite a few who were doing just that.  However my guess is this is the only stretch of this coast we'll be tackling (but never say never - learned that after we completed the Costwold trail;) 
Loved having experienced this great trail - but my feet are happy the walking's over...for now.

We have internet access......at last!

Since we departed Edinburgh last Monday, we haven't had wireless access. The folks at our B&B have kindly allowd us to use their computer and we can finally post an update. We've made our way out to the Cornwall coast and have walked 4 of the 6 days with 2 days off (including today!). The walk has been fairly strenuous, but the beauty of the coast and ocean have made it very enjoyable. The weather has mostly cooperated: sun, clouds and the odd shower. The one constant has been the wind, but that should be expected when the Atlantic is just over your right shoulder. Today, we have a day off in the town of Fowey (pronounced Foy), which has plenty of quaint shops and restaurants. Three days of walking to go before we make it to Plymouth, then on to London and the last bit of the trip.

The walk is about to begin!

After a day of travel from Edinburgh via air and rail, we are in Falmouth on the southwest coast of England. We're at a very nice B&B and had dinner at a cafe on the beach.  Following dinner and after returning to our room, we have been pulling out the boots and getting ready to start the walking portion of our vacation.  After two quick ferry rides over Falmouth bay early Tuesday morning, we'll be on the trail and heading towards Plymouth, 76 miles to the ENE.  The weather looks like it should be pleasant for most of the next several days, but we can't rule out the odd shower or two later in the week.  The wind, however, will be our constant companion (at least it will be a tailwind!).

Insider trading tip: Buy stock in Band-Aid as Jan will be going through the bunyon pads and blister prevention bandages.

A visit to St Andrews

St Andrews, Scotland is only an hour train ride from Edinburgh - so since we were in the neighborhood, why not visit the birthplace of golf.  The Old Course is everything you've heard about...reverent like a shrine, beautiful, windy, the original links-type course, the originator of 18 holes and yet is still surprisingly chauvenistic.  Believe it or not, the R&A still does not allow females as members.  Almost wanted to boycott the place on principle.  Ok - wanted to, but couldn't.  The place really is cool - and where else do you find broken tees in the street or on the sidewalk??!!
 And again there were educational opportunities everywhere!  News to me was that the town is not just the home to the famous golf course or the home of St Andrews University (where William & Kate attended), but it's also steeped in Scottish history.  At one time there was a cathedral that was similar to Westminster Abbey and home to body parts of St Andrew himself.  (Love that only parts were here...not sure where they are now.)  
Now I just wish I could've found some of the original golf balls made of leather filled with feathers:)

Whisky Tasting (not Whiskey Tasting)

So...this holiday is turning out to be educational as well as fun!  For example, I (Jan) have now learned that if you're talking about Whisky in Scotland, it's without an 'e'...and if you're discussing Irish Whiskey, it's with an 'e'.  So now I know!  I however still know nothing about Whisky (or Whiskey), but both Graham and Owen had a chance to learn and taste test some new Whiskies from one of the local Edinburgh experts at a place known as Cadenheads.  Talk about a plethora of Whiskey choices - it's what I would call a 'candy store' for Whisky drinkers.  I think the boys were actually overwhelmed when we first walked in.  And let's just say they were a little more relaxed when we left...with a couple of small bottles in hand;)

We've made it to Edinburgh

After a long day+ of travel (a delay at O'Hare for t-storms and a medical emergency on our flight to London which actually included a flight attendant asking if there was a doctor onboard), we made all of our connections and are now in Edinburgh. We arrived Thurs afternoon and after dinner, faded quickly and called it a night. Friday started with a visit to Greyfriars Bobby's grave (famous loyal Skye Terrier who sat on the grave of his master for 14 yrs) and then a tour Edinburgh Castle. Following lunch, we walked up to the top of Arthur's Seat, the 800'+ dormant volcano that gave a spectacular 360 degree view of the town and Firth of Fourth. We have just returned from a great dinner at a seafood restaurant. More sights to see on Saturday, including a stroll along the Royal Mile, lunch at a pub to watch the Manchester United game and various monuments. Sunday plans include a 1-hour train trip to visit St Andrews and, hopefully, a chance to walk the course (no golf on Sunday, which lets the locals stroll along the famous fairways). We'll add some photos shortly.

Heading over 'the pond'

We're on our way! As what should be a surprise to none, we made it to the airport in plenty of time and are now enjoying a Bloody Mary (or two; we are early!). The next time we will see our luggage (both sneaking under the 50 lb. limit), bagpipes will be playing. Talk to everyone later. G & J

Countdown

So the countdown has begun...we leave on our U.K. trip in a day and a half.  Excitement is building and yet there's the corresponding worry that our bags will exceed the 50 lb mark.  Time to lighten up!!